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| Had to document this; the first time I actually did my hair in 3 months! |
Nome was hit with its first big snow storm of the year just as I was leaving for a recruiting visit to Shishmaref. Sitting in the airport I had flashbacks of getting stuck in Unalakleet due to unfavorable flying conditions, so I couldn’t believe it when the pilot called us to board the plane. Once on board we had to wait quite some time for final clearance, and I watched a boy write his name and village in the fogged up window; he told me everyone does it as a way to see which of their friends and family have traveled recently. Upon further inspection, I noticed that most of the windows had similar messages written on them, appearing from our heat. Nothing like condensation communication!
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| The plow clearing off the runway so our plane could land |
The airline we typically fly with follows all of the safety guidelines, but isn’t known for being conservative in questionable weather. They will, and do, fly in anything. A surprising number of locals have been in plane crashes resulting in broken bones and other “minor” injuries, and it’s always shrugged off as just being the nature of flying in bush Alaska. Real-life experience is the best teaching tool, but I admit it was a little disconcerting that this particular flight was being piloted by an apprentice. An experienced copilot was there for backup, but the majority of our 45 minutes in the air was handled by a newbie. As I was desperately trying not to freak out, a teenager sitting next to me was having fits of pure glee as the plane was taking dips and climbs comparable to a rollercoaster ride, minus the tracks. You always wonder what things might go through your head in a plane crash, and this flight provided me with a snippet. Let’s just say it was more alarming than enlightening. When it was all over, we landed on green land without even a dusting of snow. It always amazes me how different the weather can be in places that are in such close proximity.
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| The highest point in Shish! |
Being in Shishmaref was an experience in itself, and served as my first adventure to the Arctic Circle. It is the most populated village that I’ve been to (with around 500 residents), but also the smallest physically. The settlement is located on a barrier island that is a total of 7 square miles, only 3 of which are actually land. The village is ¼ mile wide(!), with one main road running down the middle. Political viewpoints aside, the effects of global warming are abundantly clear. This island is located on the Chukchi Sea rather than the Bering Sea, and its rising waters from melting sea ice are quite literally closing in on the town. The permafrost is also thawing, increasing the rate at which the soil is being washed away. These conditions are causing an average loss of ten feet of erosion each year. One particularly hefty storm swallowed up over 125 feet of land in one clip, and a new school had to be built as the previous one had fallen into the sea. If you look out onto the submerged dunes you notice that they are actually comprised of old vehicles, large appliances, and even old buildings.
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| The land is so thin you can see the water on both sides! |
Because of this, the village has been attempting to relocate for years. Tin Creek was selected as a new settlement location, however after a lengthy testing process to determine the viability of surviving in this new area it was decided that the very same problems would occur there as well. Out of the frying pan, and into the fire. Leaders in Shishmaref are looking into the possibility of relocating to the village of Wales, but a cost analysis concluded that it would be a multimillion-dollar endeavor. I spoke with a veteran teacher about this issue, and she believes that folks will stay until the road is flooded, flee to relatives in neighboring towns, and there’s “Shish” you can do about it. I guess only time will tell, but I’m glad I got to visit before it becomes a modern day, less glitzy, Atlantis.
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| The school, with one of the only six working vehicles in town parked out front |
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| Shish has so many students they use "portable classrooms" |
My trips to the villages are usually spent on my own, but as fate would have it a friend from Nome was also spending a night in Shishmaref for work. After we were both done for the day, we decided to go for a walk. We couldn’t go too far (we were essentially doing laps), and it wasn’t long before the winter storm following us from Nome made its grand appearance. The excitement of the first big snow was palpable, and kids were everywhere bounding through the fluffy whiteness. Once we’d had our fill it was slumber party time. My friend doesn’t work for the district, and there are no hotels, so he paid $70 to stay at the school overnight. A bit surprising when you consider the fact that we’re provided with thin foam mattress pads and the deluxe accommodations of a library floor and dubiously heated showers. But I’m not complaining; Shishmaref is a village without a fresh water supply, and the school has the only running water in town.
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| Clean water goes in from the tank through the blue tube, and out through the yellow tube |
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| Matty and I in separate pictures; there was no one to play photographer for us! |
Shishmaref may not have the resources I’m accustomed to, but it is often referred to as the “friendliest village in Alaska”, and by my knowledge this is no exaggeration. Every single person I came in contact with said hello, asked me where I was visiting from, and offered me some sort of help or comfort. This kindness and hospitality may spring from the fact that they must depend on each other for their very survival, or they may just be generous and thoughtful folks. Whatever the reason, I appreciated and was inspired by their unconditional generosity. My visit was brief, but I was seen off like an old friend. I was hugged goodbye, questioned about when I expected to return, and my pockets were filled with snacks for the trip home.
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| Developing my taste buds with beluga meat and dry fish! |
It’s been winter for a few weeks now, and I think I’m adjusting to the climate. I remember going outside one morning and thinking about how warm it felt; a drive by the bank informed me that is was 19 degrees outside. I’ve realized that almost anything feels warm in Nome when it’s not windy. But let’s be honest; I’m not going so far as the scantily clad folks celebrating their Halloween weekend in typical skin-revealing style. Call me crazy, but miniskirts and freezing temperatures just never seem to go together. Although I do enjoy watching kids strap on their ice skates and cruise down the snowy (not icy) roads.
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| Halloween candy sure ain't cheap... |
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| A beanie baby and a scarecrow |
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| The Canadians! |
