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View from our Subway window, probably the best in any Subway ever |
Throughout the week, I’ve been inundated with delicious, sweet and rich King crab meat. Crabbing is in full swing, and this is a particularly good year. Folks take a snow machine or ski out onto the sea ice until it begins to get thinner (near shore it’s frozen solid to the ground) to chop out a hole and drop in their crab pots. While I have yet to make this trek myself, I’ve been learning a lot about this sport vicariously. Some crabs have been tagged by local marine wildlife officials, and sometimes a lucky crab will wind up in your pot. These special ones can be brought into the office to be measured and tracked, and besides leaving with your delicious crab you also get a free mug or hat for your trouble. One friend made the mistake of eating his crab before returning the tag – needless to say they weren’t too happy with him. Another friend in town left his pots in for a week without checking them, only to find 72 humungous crabs bursting at the seams! Even after throwing most of them back into the Bering Sea, he had plenty to share. I was fortunate enough to partake in a few of these Alaskan King crabs, pulled straight from the bottom of the Bering Sea only hours before they hit my plate.
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Cutting through the ice, which is pushed under rather than pulled out |
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Friends with their crab pot, about to go in |
To prepare these critters, all roommates were on deck. We got a system going - stab the poor thing in the head, then quickly place them upside down on the kitchen floor. Clad in winter boots, we’d step on the base of their body and pull upwards, removing the legs in one quick and clean maneuver. Some folks drink the contents of the body and head, which is a yellow gelatinous substance called “head soup”. With pounds of fresh crab meat awaiting our rumbling tummies, none of us were inclined to try this novelty. Reflexes were still fully functional as the halved legs were scrambling to get out of the boiling water. After 5 minutes in the bath it was all done. I can’t adequately describe how delicious this meat is – the absolute sweetest flavor with a buttery richness, and hint of sea salty goodness. This week I’ve enjoyed crab cakes, crab on a cracker, a grilled cheese and crab sandwich, crab bisque, and crab chowder. My absolute favorite way to eat this delicacy is just plain, pulled right out of the leg and popped into my mouth; butter was an unnecessary distraction from the amazing quality of the meat.
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The critter! |
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He's a big guy... |
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Ripping the poor thing apart |
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Ready to eat! |
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Homemade crab cakes, with one full pound of meat |
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Yummy crab chowder |
Weather this week began with another windstorm. I still can’t get over how even if it isn’t actually snowing, blowing ground snow can cause a complete whiteout. It races over the roads in mesmerizing waves and swirls that hide the snowdrifts building up as well as the other vehicles sharing the road. I haven’t gotten used to the fact that storms always bring warmer temperatures, but fortunately these warmth and sun have lingered throughout the week. I can’t believe how much snow and ice melts away each day, even if it doesn’t get close to above freezing. This sun is doing some powerful things. I’m seeing the gravel roads, absolutely snow and ice free for the first time since October 14th. The cheeriness that this turn in the weather brings is palpable, and instead of bracing your might against the bitter wind and cold, every person I see is beaming with a smile and a hello once again. I know that winter is still hanging around for another couple months, but the worst is most certainly over.
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Road whiteouts make for some scary driving! |
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Snow swirling on the roads |
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Alaskan seasons |
Friday marked the long awaited arrival of my honey, traveling over 4,000 miles to be with me in Nome. I can’t begin to explain how difficult it is to survive here alone, where everything is so much more difficult and complicated than in the lower-48. I’ll admit that I’m pretty proud of the challenges I’ve overcome and the growth I’ve achieved as a professional and as an individual throughout these past 8 months. That being said, it is so incredibly wonderful to have a loved one here as a morale booster, co-conspirator, and support system. He got here just in time for me to enjoy another week off from work, to get acquainted to Nome and acclimated to being with each other. Things are looking up.
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My best friend in Nome, and my honey |
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Put him to work right off the plane - recording a spot for KNOM |
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Welcome to Nome! |